Which snowmobile rider hasn’t heard of the famous white road (route blanche)? As one of our travel companions said, it is a bit like the Compostela for snowmobilers. Follow me as I tell you about my recent expedition in the Lower North Shore on this mythical road between Natashquan and Blanc-sablon.
A snowmobile dream on the Lower North Shore becomes reality
Many years ago, I had planned to set out solo by snowmobile to reach Blanc-Sablon. As a meteorologist by trade, I watch the weather, and an intense low-pressure system set its sights on the Lower North Shore with snow and wind. Assessing the conditions and risks, I changed my destination plans at that time.
I don’t know about you, but for me it’s always the same story. One year you’re available but the weather doesn’t cooperate. When conditions are excellent, availability isn’t.
Finally retired, my schedule becomes more “flexible.” After three years of trying, the stars have finally aligned to let me depart. I anticipate this trip. I prepare it like any other snowmobile trip. Big mistake!
I quickly realize this won’t be a “traditional” snowmobile trip. It’s more an adventure and a human experience with no relation to the trips I’ve been doing for nearly 30 years.
My adventure companions on the Route blanche
For safety, I decide to share this trip with two good companions to live this adventure with me. Let me introduce them.
Jean-François
I’ve had the pleasure of taking several trips with Jean-François: in Gaspésie, in Beauce, and at the 49th parallel. Young, he is the president of our snowmobile club. He is actively involved for snowmobilers.
Yoland
Yoland was part of our trip to the 49th parallel with Jean-François. He’s a retired police officer who had the chance to work on the Lower North Shore. It’s an experience he will share with us.
February 26: departure for Natashquan, the adventure on the Route blanche begins
The adventure starts for us on my birthday… what a nice gift! We leave Bas-Saint-Laurent to take the ferry between Matane and Godbout for a first overnight in Sept-Îles. Just getting to Sept-Îles, the adventure has already begun.
My companions agree to make a short stop to grab a bite in Port-Cartier. I have the pleasure of having supper with my godson before he leaves. He works on the railway at Fire Lake. Having lived with us for several months, we are very close. We take every opportunity to see each other. Thanks to my companions.
February 27: meeting Voyages Coste before the Route blanche
After a night in Sept-Îles, departure for Rivière-au-Tonnerre for a meeting with the general manager, Alberte Marcoux, of the Voyages Coste agency. We get acquainted. We will need to check our messages regularly to know if any changes occur during our travels. We are told that “Where the road ends, the adventure begins.” We will become very aware of this during our adventure.
Several times, we’re reminded this is not a snowmobile trip like we’ve known. It’s an encounter with a community, a better understanding of reality—in short, an immersion trip into the world of the “coast dwellers.”
Our group of three snowmobilers had received an itinerary a few days before departure. At the meeting with Alberte, we learn there are changes (which will become the norm). You have to understand lodging is limited. We learn that every weekend a hockey tournament takes place and each village hosts it. And let’s not forget Mother Nature will be playing with us.
We leave Alberte to have lunch in Havre-Saint-Pierre at the restaurant La Promenade facing the sea. Oh yes, this is truly the sea. The daily special is cod fillet, which is the choice for the three of us.
Finally, the last stage, Natashquan, where we will spend the night at Auberge La Cache. Last stop before the real snowmobile departure. When we arrive, no one is at reception. Snowmobilers are present and tell us the keys are there, clearly labeled for each person, and all that’s left is to settle in… like at home. A little later, the receptionist arrives and gives us some directions and answers all our questions. Very welcoming and very kind, we appreciate the local welcome… only to learn the receptionist is from Montréal and has been in Natashquan only a few years. I conclude the region makes us all zen.
February 28: Where the road ends, the adventure begins
Breakfast is included. Since we want to leave early, we can prepare our own breakfast. Simple, hearty, and very friendly, it suits us perfectly. We are excited on this first day toward our goal of Blanc-Sablon.
We must start by moving the clock forward, as we are changing time zones. We will be on Atlantic Standard Time for the whole trip. After only 40 km of driving with the trailer, we arrive in Kegaska, the famous end of Route 138.
We leave our vehicles and trailers in a large secure parking lot set up for this purpose. Many vehicles and trailers. We find a spot to park for the week.
We are all set for our grand snowmobile departure. We find the starting point of the snowmobile trail. The weather is cloudy, but visibility is good. With a few butterflies in our stomachs, we set off.
A bit unsure at first, we quickly realize the trail is perfectly marked. We tick off the kilometres toward our midday objective, the village of La Romaine. The trail is bumpy. We didn’t quite know what to expect. Despite the joy of doing this adventure, we lower our expectations a bit. Big mistake! What follows will quickly catch up to us.
On the way, we stop at the first shelter we come across. There are 21 shelters installed by the Ministry of Transport. You’ll find a wood stove and a supply of wood. Outside, the shelter number is posted with its GPS coordinates. You also find distances east and west to the next village, fuel, and another shelter.
Oops! First small schedule change: heading to La Romaine
In La Romaine, while refuelling, I check my messages to be sure there haven’t been any changes. Excellent idea! Initially, we were to go to Chevery and take the ice bridge to stay overnight in Harrington Harbour.
The ice bridge is not secure except for a few locals. This implies a helicopter transfer between Chevery and Harrington Harbour. The helicopter cannot take off due to the weather. Also, there’s no place to stay in Chevery where all the Lower North Shore residents are gathered for a hockey tournament.
Note:
Another group of snowmobilers was to make the same stop, but not having taken the time to read their messages, they went to Chevery. Impossible to stay overnight. Two options for them: go back 100 km to La Romaine or continue 40 km and stay in Tête-à-la-Baleine. They chose the second option.
An afternoon in La Romaine: immersion in coastal life
Our morning objective was 157 km. In the end, with the changes, we have only 60 km to cover. Although the trail conditions were a bit difficult. Slowly, blue sky appears and morale rises in step with the shining sun. We take our time to savour every moment.
Arriving around lunchtime, we take the opportunity to see our first village in the region. Located near the sea, we enjoy the moment of seeing the immensity of the ocean. We begin to “disconnect” and take on the rhythm of the Lower North Shore.
Adapting to change
At the gas station, convenience store, grocery store—ultimately all in the same place—we are quickly recognized. According to locals, that’s because only police and outsiders wear helmets. Being quite talkative, sometimes too much, I easily start conversations. It seems odd to them that we’re there. We’re asked about our motivation for such a trip.
The afternoon goes by and we eventually head to Hôtel Mme Ruby in La Romaine.
It’s simple, very clean, and the hotel mainly hosts workers. One day, a road will link Kegaska to La Romaine. At this time of year, it’s still quiet. The meal choice is very limited, a single option. However, the welcome is very warm, and it will be like this everywhere we go. The meal is delicious and, satisfied, we now head to the sleep phase. Breakfast will be just as hearty.
March 1: Harrington Harbour or La Grande Séduction
With only 100 km to our next destination, we head to the Chevery airport to take the helicopter to Harrington Harbour (the iconic setting of the film La Grande Séduction).
Before departure, we refuel where we meet Yvrad Marcoux. This very friendly man is our dear Alberte’s uncle. He confirms we’re in very good hands. We have no doubt. After a nice discussion, we head to the airport.
While waiting, we chat with a coastal resident. He tells us his grandfather came to Chevery. He built an experimental farm in 1931, importing animals such as pigs. He also grew vegetables, mainly potatoes. The farm would be active for about ten years.
We also have the pleasure of spending time with Judy Monger, passing through to Harrington. We learn she is Alberte’s best friend. It all ends with photos and hugs. These encounters let us discover an unsuspected side of the region.
The service is provided by Héli-Express, and it’s Hugo Rouard who welcomes us. He explains the helicopter approach rules. None of us is disappointed to take a helicopter ride to the island. The ice bridge is not secure to reach Gîte La Séduction. But we will see a local snowmobiler take the ice bridge, which changes with the tides.
At last, we take off! Since it’s Jean-François’s first helicopter flight, we seat him up front next to the pilot, Fred Nadeau, who will bring us safely to our destination. You could say his joy was obvious and he was quite happy the ice bridge wasn’t operational.
Harrington Harbour: a mythical stop on the Lower North Shore
Harrington Harbour, along with Blanc-Sablon, is one of the major objectives of our trip. Going to the Lower North Shore and not stopping on this island is a bit like missing the adventure. An iconic location from the film La Grande Séduction, we are charmed by the beauty of the village and the welcome of our hosts.
The inn is only a few minutes’ walk from the heliport. We have the owners’ former house to ourselves for the three of us. Bedrooms are upstairs. In the living room, we have a magnificent view of the harbour. We take time to fully relax.
We go visit the village, walking on the wooden boardwalks while admiring the sea and the harbour. We have a little thought for the film La Grande Séduction. We are beyond our expectations in this place. The weather is magnificent.
Time flies quickly. We are expected for supper. Three other snowmobilers are with us. Conversation picks up quickly. Everyone is feeling strong emotions.
The aroma of the meal surrounds us. Starting with the smell of fresh bread, crab soup, and a stew of beef, caribou, and vegetables. Yum!
Our hostess, with complete humility, puts us at ease. We feel like part of a big family. Once again well fed, we go back to our “house” to relax and get a good night’s sleep. And what a night it is.
Tomorrow, many surprises await!
That’s it for this first part of my snowmobile adventure on the Lower North Shore! I’ll continue my story in an upcoming column that will be published soon, so stay tuned! See you soon!
