What snowmobiler hasn’t heard of Blanc-Sablon? As one of our travel companions put it, Blanc-Sablon is a bit like the Compostela of snowmobiling. In my previous column, I shared the first part of my journey on the Lower North Shore, from Natashquan to Harrington Harbour. If you haven’t read it yet, click here to catch up—I’ll wait! In this second part, we continue our adventure along the White Road toward Blanc-Sablon. Follow me—we’re back on the trail!
March 2: After the Storm, Heading Toward Tête-à-la-Baleine
Waiting for the Helicopter
Harrington Harbour—surprise this morning at Gîte La Séduction! A major storm swept through the region overnight. Snowdrifts piled up to several feet in height. The helicopter is grounded until further notice. We don’t know if we’ll be able to leave or if we’ll have to stay another night. From our perspective, everything seems fine to depart. The issue is that the clouds are too low for air transport.
Our host, Chantal Monger, tells us: “If we can see the top of the communications tower, the helicopter will be able to come.” Unfortunately, that’s not the case this morning. So we take the time to enjoy a delicious breakfast with other tourists sharing the same adventure.
We’ve adopted the “coaster” rhythm. It’ll happen when it happens! Gradually, locals start moving about and “pack down” the snow on sidewalks with their snowmobiles. That’s how pedestrians can get around. Our hosts take good care of us. We wait patiently. There’s time to chat. We learned a lot about life in Harrington Harbour.
We even get to hear about our hosts’ first romantic encounters. One lived in Harrington Harbour, the other in Tête-à-la-Baleine—building a love story involved quite a journey. When you’re young and in love, you’re ready for anything. A bit crazy, her sweetheart lived—if not risked—many adventures to win over his new flame. A beautiful love story… that still lasts today!
Time passes pleasantly, almost disappearing. Chantal handles communications with the heliport to confirm the helicopter’s arrival and ensure it will pick us up. Lunchtime arrives—no refusals when lunch is offered. Finally, in the afternoon, it’s confirmed: we’ll be able to get back on the road. Several of us head out. Three other snowmobilers and a few locals depart in turn. The owner brings our luggage, and we head to the heliport.
Back on the White Road
We arrive at the airport in Chevery at 2:30 p.m. The snowmobiles are well buried after the storm. Once they’ve cleared, we’re happy to get back on the trail. We’re pleased that it’s only 40 km to Tête-à-la-Baleine. The skies remain cloudy, but it’s a beautiful, serene ride.
After two hours of snowmobiling, we arrive in Tête-à-la-Baleine, one of the few francophone villages in the region. As always, we refuel upon arrival. We reconnect with our companions from earlier that day—people we’ll cross paths with again.
Upon arriving at the Auberge de l’Archipel, our host, Martin Marcoux, gives us a warm welcome. It’s there that we learn he’s the brother of our wonderful Alberte. At dinner, we chat a bit with Olga. She speaks only a little English, and we eventually understand that she’s Ukrainian and that her son is still there, serving in the army. A reality that feels very distant, yet brings us closer to what others are living so intensely. Everything feels far away, but in the end… the world is small.
March 3: Island Visit and Heading Toward Blanc-Sablon
Heading Offshore
The day begins with a visit to the islands. Impossible to get there without a local guide. Martin, our host, is the one who will treat us to some unforgettable moments.
Leaving the official trail, he explains that we must follow his tracks to avoid getting bogged down in the snow. Sometimes, the tide pushes water over the ice, creating slush. That’s exactly what happens to one member of the other group. Working together, we manage to get going again safely.
Island Museum Visits
Along with three other snowmobilers, Martin guides us offshore to visit the islands. We first visit the chapel in Île Providence. Martin explains the lives of the first families on the island. We also visit the Jos Hébert House on Île de la Passe, a museum filled with interesting artifacts and period photos.
We return to the mainland and thank our friend Martin for the tour. We rejoin the White Road, marked every 50 feet.
Toward Gros-Mécatina (La Tabatière)
We have the option of taking a shortcut or rerouting through Gros-Mécatina along the coast. We choose the seaside route, knowing we’ll take the shortcut on the return. We later learned it was the right choice. The trail is stunning, with beautiful viewpoints.
As we exit the village, we meet one of the many people responsible for maintaining the White Road, Nicolas Marcoux. A strange feeling—he reminds me of someone. After a short chat, I learn he’s the brother of Martin, our guide, and Alberte from Voyages CoSte. Clearly, there’s a family resemblance.
Trail maintenance is carried out regularly under the responsibility of the Ministry of Transport. We benefited from it throughout our stay.
We continue eastward. Rivers, bays, and land alternate. The weather is beautiful. I feel zen. With every kilometre, I absorb the beauty of nature. I leave some distance between myself and my companions, stopping to take it all in.
Pakuashipi (Saint-Augustin)
We make a short stop in Pakuashipi (Saint-Augustin) for a snack and fuel. There’s lots of activity at the gas station. We run into our three snowmobiling friends again, along with two police officers on snowmobiles. Only the police and tourists wear helmets, so we’re easy to spot. Yoland shares anecdotes from his time as a police officer in the region—great stories!
There are many curiosities in isolated villages. You see young children riding snowmobiles. Then I spot a woman, whom I estimate to be nearly 80 years old, doing her shopping… by snowmobile. It’s practically the only means of transportation. I know this environment well, having lived for several years in an Inuit village.
Rivière-Saint-Paul
After the break, we continue toward Rivière-Saint-Paul. The sunny day lets us fully savour the vastness. We’re in pure bliss. Sometimes words fail when you love Nature with a big N. Conditions are superb.
To add to our enjoyment, we meet another trail maintenance crew. They’re always happy to talk with snowmobilers passing through. So are we! We learn that the senior member, after more than 30 years maintaining trails, is preparing the next generation.
Reality turns out to be very different from what we expected. The variety of landscapes continues, making the trip exceed our expectations. We head toward Rivière-Saint-Paul, where we’ll leave our snowmobiles. The final kilometres to Blanc-Sablon are not safe.
Blanc-Sablon
We arrive in Rivière-Saint-Paul to refuel. A bit disappointed not to reach our final destination by snowmobile, we’re able to use a car. Our disappointment quickly turns to joy thanks to the stunning scenery. We even concluded that we’re very happy to have done the final stretch by car. After all, setting foot in Newfoundland still brings a special feeling.
We’re recommended Jungle Jim’s restaurant in Labrador—a family restaurant with plenty of options. Back to the Auberge Motel Quatre Saisons in Blanc-Sablon, a must-stop. We chat with the owner, a gifted storyteller. Between regional history and anecdotes, we laugh until we cry. We head to bed relaxed, smiling from ear to ear.
March 4: Rivière-Saint-Paul, Followed by Dinner at Salmon Bay Farm
Blanc-Sablon
With the owner needing to catch a flight, we prepare our own breakfast—just like at home. The selection is varied and complete, very convivial. A small anecdote: one of the airport staff calls our host to hurry him along so he doesn’t miss his flight. It’s truly a different world from the city.
Before leaving Blanc-Sablon, we stop by the CLSC to say hello to Judy, whom we’d met at the Chevery airport a few days earlier. A promise kept. Then we head back to Rivière-Saint-Paul.
Rivière-Saint-Paul
Back in Rivière-Saint-Paul, we have the chance to meet Galan Nadeau, a true local who will guide us for the day. We begin with a visit to the Whiteley Museum.
Galan explains the history of Bonne Espérance—colourful and passionate. We learned with great interest about the region’s past, including the important economic role of cod fishing. After a visit that feels too short, we continue outdoors.
A Bit of Off-Trail Riding
We continue offshore, always with reminders of standard safety protocols to avoid accidents—rules we’ll respect throughout the trip. History has left its mark here. Galan reminds us that fishermen settled on these islands long ago.
Our guide explains life in those days—an unfamiliar history for those of us from elsewhere. We’re moved by the hardships faced by early settlers, and overwhelmed by the beauty and vastness of the land. What an adventure!
Ending the Day on a High Note
After this wonderful day with Galan, we’re invited to Salmon Bay Farm, where scallops take centre stage. Welcomed by the two owners, Kimberley Buffit and Shae-Lynn Roberts, we’re blown away by the site’s magnificence.
The beauty of the setting, the kindness of our hosts, and the quality of the food leave us in a state of well-being. We can’t help but thank Marica Keats and Carolyn Sins, who prepared such a wonderful dinner.
We learn that breakfast the next morning will be at Carolyn’s home—this big-hearted grandmother.
March 5: La Romaine (337 km)
We have to leave early. At 6:30 a.m., Carolyn welcomes us into her home with her daughter Kimberley. We savour homemade food (pancakes, homemade jams, etc.) and the aroma of good coffee. Breakfast matches Carolyn’s smile. What wonderful moments with such warm people! The day looks promising… before the rain.
The Return
After two great nights at the Whiteley Inn, we plan our return. A full program awaits. Heavy rain is forecast for the next day, so we plan to cover as many kilometres as possible today—337 km in one day.
Before leaving, we speak with Alberte from Voyages CoSte about our plans. Our goal: get as far west as possible before the “ferry”. She takes care of finding us accommodations. We’ll reconnect when we stop in Tête-à-la-Baleine. In the meantime, we’re loving every moment—well taken care of.
The weather is glorious. The White Road is stunning. Every moment, every second, I feel a gentle solitude. I almost forget my riding companions—I’m alone in the world. What a feeling!
[caption id= “attachment_116021” align= “aligncenter” width= “1600”]
I remain fascinated by the signage placed every 50 feet, like a metronome.
Tête-à-la-Baleine
The reality catches up with us. We arrive in Tête-à-la-Baleine at 11:00 a.m. after nearly 200 km. Time to refuel and grab a bite. We encounter the delivery “truck”: a snowmobile pulling not one, not two, but three sleds.
Toward Chevery
Step by step, we agree to continue toward Chevery. Alberte will help decide whether we stop there or if accommodations are available in La Romaine. I’m pleasantly surprised by trail conditions—excellent, with near-maximum maintenance.
Arriving in Chevery, we reconnect with Alberte. She confirms we’re expected at Hôtel Mme Ruby in La Romaine, where we stayed on the way out. The kilometres fly by faster than expected. After 337 km and just over nine hours of riding, we arrive in La Romaine just before 4:00 p.m. Wow—what a day!
Tonight is our last dinner on the White Road with my two companions. We’re the only three in the dining room, but the cook puts her heart into it—and we’re not disappointed. Portions are generous! During the meal, we share individual moments from the trip—a mix of images, sensations, and emotions.
In the evening, a quick team huddles. One last look at the forecast. Rain is moving in quickly for tomorrow. Departure will be early.
March 6: Destination Kegaska and Sept-Îles
As we’re the only three guests, breakfast is served at 6:00 a.m. We can gear up by 7:00 a.m. A quick meal, then off for the final stretch of the White Road. Snow has started falling, and we ride in winter conditions.
Even though it’s only 57 km, the pace is slower. Trail conditions are more challenging. This stretch between La Romaine and Kegaska, the last community connected by road, is very busy. Maintenance is harder due to the volume of traffic.
A Dream Realized
In just over two hours, we cover the distance. Official arrival in Kegaska at 9:06 a.m. Snow continues to fall. Emotions run high—an exceptional adventure and human experience.
Once the snowmobiles are loaded onto the trailers, snow turns to rain—the ferry is running. On the way back, we stop by Voyages CoSte. We learned that some snowmobilers weren’t able to complete the journey and had to turn back.
Finally, we want to thank everyone we met along the White Road. Your warm welcome truly touched us. Thanks to Voyages CoSte—especially Alberte, considered the control tower for snowmobilers. We learned that each day, every hotelier informed the agency of our departures and arrivals. This logistical coordination ensured a safe journey for all snowmobilers.
And that’s it—our Lower North Shore journey comes to an end. But I’m not done talking about it! In my next article, I’ll share our preparation and some recommendations for this incredible trip. See you soon!
