From Chibougamau, trail TQ 93 brings us to Chapais, head of waters discharging into the James Bay and Hudson Bay. This small town, with an economy based on forestry and mining resources, is actually affected by disruption in these markets. About 1 600 people live here. Local economy relies on wood processing, biomass production, greenhouse production, picking and transformation of wild berries and seed potato. Chapais is an important relay on trail TQ 93 to, among others, fuel up before heading west. The 2-star Hotel Opémiska (11 rooms) is also located close to the trail.
Facilities in Chapais
Oujé-Bougoumou
A loop that is well worth the detour is the discovery and experience of Cree culture by visiting or even by staying in Oujé-Bougoumou. This territory located 25 km from Chapais is a Cree community of 750 residents. It goes along Lake Opémiska and it is managed by its own Band Council. The architecture of the buildings is really outstanding. It is the masterpiece, among others, of Douglas Cardinal who also took part to the design of the Canadian Museum of History in Gatineau. Many advanced concepts are observed in this community in matter of technology, urban planning, religion and social organization, which earned them the UNESCO recognition.
We can find the Aanischaaukamikw Cree Cultural Institute, the Capissisit Lodge, a sports complex, a church and a school that are unique pieces of architecture. In fact, all the village uses a district heating system supplied with mini-hydro power fed by firewood or heating oil. The heater is supplied by waste sawdust from sawmills and forestry operations. This system is an innovation adapted to northern realities.
The sports complex of the village
A street in the village
The 3-star Capissisit Lodge is an outstanding architectural masterpiece that offers 24 very comfortable rooms. There is also a dining room. For details and booking : 418-745-3944.
Traditional crafts
Next to the lodge, a group of traditional buildings allow visitors to learn about traditions and various functions and crafts specific to the Cree Nation. Among others, they make traditional babiche snowshoes, sleighs for different usages, shovels and other wooden tools for trapping and fur preparation, along with various other traditional items. A visit of the longhouse will let you see other works made by Cree women. At the same time, they prepare and watch the cooking of the traditional meal made of game meat that will be shared with visitors at lunch. The menu includes nice surprises and unique flavors to discover. These large traditional shelters used for various works are also very comfortable and warm.
Finally, if a stay of one or two nights in a Cree traditional lodging on the lakeside may persuade you to complete your immersion in wilderness, different traditional camps are offered to you by the community. These camps made of branches, insulated with moss under snow cover and heated with firewood, are very comfortable. The ground is covered with layers of pine needles, very comfortable beds are raised and set on wood floors. There are even rustic dryers that are very efficient for your clothes. For more details on activities and Cree traditional camps, Mrs Anna David Bosum, cultural organizer (418-770-8752), will be happy to set up your customized stay on the Oujé-Bougoumou territory. Groups are also welcome.
Anna David Bosum at the group camps
Traditional lodging for groups
Traditional lodging for a group of 4
Warm traditional lodging insulated with moss and snow
Snowmobilers will easily find and reach the gas station and convenience store, the Casey’s Gas-Depanneur. Staying in Oujé-Bougoumou is a very enjoyable unique experience. All snowmobilers will remember it for a long time.
Oujé-Bougoumou – Lebel-sur-Quévillon
On the very well groomed local trail, we come back towards Chapais to reach trail TP 93 heading west to Lebel-sur-Quévillon.
Club de motoneige de Chapais
An almost mandatory stop for coffee and to learn the latest trail conditions is made at the Club de motoneige de Chapais. We cannot miss it, right on trail. Many snowmobilers gather here for breakfast before hitting the 235 km segment between Chapais and Lebel-sur-Quévillon. A menu is offered all day long and some evening activities take place some times. Mr Jacques Bérubé, founding member and actual president of the club, is very proud of his club that not only offers full services but also quality trails. You will receive a warm welcome and you will see pictures and documents that will make you discover the history of this club that survives pretty well despite residents leaving Chapais in the latest years.
Restaurant and service at the Club de motoneige de Chapais
Leaving the Club de motoneige de Chapais, trail TQ 93 presents its most beautiful scenery. It runs on the embankment of a former railroad, so without any bump or obstacle, and it offers a breathtaking view of the landscape and lakes we come across. Some will take this opportunity to ride fast, but also it is a great area to take photos.
Trail on the former Canadian National rail line
Wildlife from the trail
From the trail and at many places, we can watch the willow grouse, also called spruce grouse. These beautiful birds usually nest further north, but many of them spend winter in easier environments, close to the 50th parallel. With totally feathery legs, this Arctic bird migrates for winter in the region where it will find shelter and food in bushes and alders along lakes and rivers, or in clearing. Its winter regime is made of stems and buds from these bushes. At the end of April, it will leave for its nesting areas in the toundra where vegetation is brushy and ground is humid. It can migrate for over 1 000 km. Its longevity is about 8 years. Female lays 10 to 14 eggs once a year. If you are fast on your camera, you will be able to take a picture of them from the trail.
A great route that offers superb view on lakes and rivers
You will surely also come across some foxes looking for food in peatland of trail TQ 93.
The convenience store and gas station in Desmaraisville
The only stop for gas and convenience store before Lebel-sur-Quévillon is located in Desmaraisville. This small mining village is inhabited by only a few people who will be happy to welcome you and give you any information you might need.
Trail TQ 93 brings us by a local trail to the Cree village of Waswanipi, which means “ Light on the Water ”. This describes exactly the ancestor who was using torch light fuelled by pine tar, to spear and catch sturgeon that had gathered during spawning period at the mouth of the Waswanipi River. This has been a resource region for fur trade. Right from 1675, the Northwest Company and then the Hudson Bay Company operated trading posts and did business with Crees of the area. The last trading post closed in 1965. Then, it has been the era of mining and forestry resources. A sawmill is an important part of the economy in this village. When we went there, the local trail to reach the village of Waswanipi from trail TQ 93 was not groomed. We had to forget about that detour of 60 km and we headed for Lebel-sur-Quévillon.
The old village of Miquelon on road 113 and the bridge of trail TQ 93
Miquelon or Pakitamakak in Cree, is located along the O’Sullivan River. Trail takes us there via a long bridge of the former Canadian National rail line. This old village is almost deserted today. Road 113 goes through it, nothing more. No restaurant, no gas station.
73 km farther, we arrive in Lebel-sur-Quévillon by trail TQ 93.
